December 4, 2022

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Does each cream live up to what it promises?  Two experts tell you which beauty ingredients to look for |  fashion beauty

Does each cream live up to what it promises? Two experts tell you which beauty ingredients to look for | fashion beauty

In a world where “clean beauty” prevails, it is increasingly difficult to decide what you can and cannot use. But is everything in black and white? Research doctor Jetske Ultee and expert expert Tiffany Masterson explain which ingredients are best to avoid. “The fragrance is aggressive and replaces ingredients that are beneficial to the skin.”

If we believe the Internet, cosmetics are full of toxic substances. This, of course, isn’t true, but the truth is that many products contain ingredients that do nothing well, assures Dr. Research Jetske Ultee. “And yes, sometimes they can also be harmful substances, for example because they cause irritation. And chronic irritation makes your skin age faster.”

The experience expert is Tiffany Masterson. After years of skin problems, she developed a brand herself that eliminated all questionable ingredients. It was the start of Drunk Elephant and the world was clearly waiting for her, as her brainchild became very popular in no time. She herself prefers not to speak of “bad” or “toxic” but of “suspicious”: not condemned, but suspicious. “These substances are not dangerous in themselves, but they can disrupt the protective layer or the functions of the skin. However, is this always the case with everyone? No.” Think of it like a FODMAP diet: By blocking certain ingredients (temporarily), you discover what you can’t tolerate and you can change your skin. But, what are these components, and are they by definition a problem?

(Read more below the image.)

Jetske Ultee © RV

1. Essential oils

Essential oils have no benefit other than their smell. On the contrary, the only thing they’re good at is nuisance, Tiffany Masterson tells us. Jetske Ultee confirms: “It has been described that 79 essential oils can provoke unpleasant reactions.” “Plus, citrus species are phototoxic: when you put them in the sun, they can cause invisible damage.”

To replace? The more the better. The exception is tea tree oil. Jetske: “This has an anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial and yeast-killing effect. But be really careful with it and always use it diluted!”

2. Alcohol

Tiffany: “Alcohol denat, SD alcohol, ethanol, ethyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and isopropyl alcohol dries the skin.” Jetske explains that alcohol evaporates quickly, drying out your skin. It also dissolves the natural lipids in the protective layer. It is precisely these natural oils that prevent moisture from seeping out of the skin and irritants can damage your skin. It is often used in cleansers and toners, especially for oily skin with pimples. such a pity! The only thing you achieve is that the skin becomes more sensitive to disturbances.”

To replace? You have alcohol and alcohol, Jetske Ultee smiles: “There are also fatty alcohols and they do the exact opposite. They actually retain moisture in the skin, making it softer. You can use cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, benhill alcohol and stearyl alcohol with confidence.”


People think that metal filters “physically” block UV rays as a shield, while chemical filters absorb radiation.

Jetske Ultee

3. silicone

You hear about silicone that it clogs the skin and causes pimples. Tiffany Masterson has also firmly removed it from the ingredients list. According to Jetske Ultee, they mainly have an image problem. “Silicones do indeed put a layer on the skin, but they don’t seal your skin. They are non-comedogenic – which means they don’t clog the sebaceous glands – and have a structure that is best compared to that of gauze. Because of this structure, they are never completely opaque or closed. Not without The reason why silicones are also used in the treatment of burns: they protect, retain moisture, reduce the risk of infection. And very important: they do not irritate the skin. In make-up, silicone ensures that everything blends well with the skin for a homogeneous and smooth effect. “

To replace? This is not necessary for your skin. Jetske Ultee: “Cleanse thoroughly to prevent dirt and oil from staying on the skin and thus clogging pores. But this always applies, even if you don’t use anything.”

4. Chemical filters

Chemical sunscreens are on the list of caveats, according to Tiffany: “They usually aren’t a problem, but for acne, rosacea, or sensitive skin, minerals are best.”

You can’t say it firmly, says Jetske Ultee. There are good and lower quality filters in both categories. People think that metal filters “physically” block UV rays as a shield, while chemical filters absorb radiation. Hence the idea that sensitive skin is better off with mineral cream. But this is not true: the work of physical and chemical filters is not much different in reality. Metal filters also absorb radiation, albeit through metal oxide rather than carbon. In addition, it can also reflect ultraviolet rays, but in fact it absorbs more.”

To replace? It’s best to skip some sun filters. Jetske Ultee: “There are filters, which, oddly enough, can’t stand the sun very well and therefore cause problems for the skin. Others may cause the formation of free radicals or irritate the skin. There are old-fashioned sunscreens that we now know really penetrate your body and may have a hormonal disrupting effect. Not recommended for use: oxybenzone, solizobenzone, enzacamine, homosalate, oxtinoxat, octoacrylene, padmate O, and amyloxate.”


The fragrance is aggressive and replaces the beneficial components of the skin.

Tiffany Masterson

5. Perfume

Tiffany Masterson: “The fragrance is aggressive and replaces ingredients that are beneficial to the skin.” Jetske Ultee agrees that this sweet scent is number one allergens. “If you use products with fragrances regularly, you are at risk of irritation, allergic reactions and contact dermatitis. In addition, fragrances can react to sunlight and thus accelerate skin aging or cause pigmentation spots. You will find them in the ingredients list as ‘perfume’ or “Perfume.” Producers don’t have to say which perfume they have added, because that would make the list too long. So one small jar can contain a massive amount of fragrance.”

To replace? Yes, including natural fragrances. Jetske Ultee: “Green fragrances—like lavender or jasmine—can also irritate the skin.”

6. SLS

Tiffany Masterson: “SLS—better known as sodium lauryl sulfate—is a harsh lotion that strips your skin, causing inflammation and destroying the skin barrier.” Jetske Ultee: “Of all the laundry materials, this is probably the one that causes the most problems.” SLS is so irritating that it is used in studies to affect small patches of skin, so that the soothing effect of another product can be tested afterwards.

To replace? Yes, but don’t confuse it with SLES or Sodium Laureth Sulfate. Jetske Ultee: “It’s only hard copy, but this ingredient is instantly milder.”

something to think about?

If substances cause a problem, why are they in our cream? Jetske Ultee: “To extend shelf life or to dissolve ingredients, or simply to cut costs. Sometimes they break the skin a little on purpose so that other active ingredients can penetrate more deeply. And sometimes you are intentionally deceived. Creams that promise to soften crow’s feet all at once contain substances Similar to glue—which is also used to counteract concrete floors or flower pots—for a toughening effect. However, this is temporary and very bad too.”

These toppers are absolutely safe:

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1. Paula’s choice, Peptide booster, 59€ with

2. Written by Dr. Jitsky Alti, Moisturizer €49.95

3 – Zechild, Active Relief Serum, 69 euros in the pharmacy

4. Drunk elephant, TLC Raspberry Glycolic Night Serum, 87 € at a price ICI Paris XL

5. Bioderma, Sensibio Defensive, 19.99 euros in the pharmacy

6. naive, All-in-one restorative cream, €12.95

7. normal, Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA 6.50 € with ICI Paris XL

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